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The Top Ten Knitwear Designers This Year
Jean Paul Gaultier
The celebrated French designer is well-known for liberally sprinkling knitwear garments in his shows. Whilst Gaultier’s procedures are not exactly revolutionary he is able to bring together other materials with knit in an interesting style. A number of of his blends have integrated smooth cashmere together with coarse mesh for instance. He is gifted at including detail, his knits are works of art.
Jennifer Lang
If you have heard of the extravagant laddering technqiue then you might well know it was pioneered by Jennifer Lang. Her MA collection at Central Saint Martins was littered across the tabloids with celebrities ordering their tailored hand knitted pieces on a regular basis. In recognition of her success she was awarded a position at London Fashion Week as well as a studio in Cockpit Studios. Designer catwalks almost immediately got used to seeing her designs and as a result she was offered a position with the All Saints brand.
Simone Shailes
The knitting world was enraptured when Shailes presented her hand knitted collection at Central St Martins College. Her creations had been modern owing much to her intricate and time consuming working techniques. The soft approaches were in contrast to her square cut jackets. Her jackets and knitted cardigans were siezed upon by Topshop and her first collection was launched. Since that collection she has been hired by Celine.
Louise Goldin
Also a Saint Martins graduate, Goldin’s collections are very contemporary. She has a talent for finding unique new yarns who’s aesthetics loan themselves to quirky, ultramodern layouts. The shaped knitwear and chiffon shifts of her most recent collection achieve an attractive balance. Her knitwear pieces have re-energized the knitwear business and encouraged extra knitwear designers to show at London Fashion Week. She is a warm prospect and so will be watched with interest.
Sonia Rykiel
The humorous and light hearted spirit of Rykiel’s handiwork is mirrored in her knitwear designs. Her jumpers are always exceedingly attractive. Like Gaultier she focuses on aesthetic detail to convey her point.
Giles
Giles most highly praised collection was customarily chunky oversized knits. The spirit of his three dimensional work might be considered to be more of an architectural account than a garment. Giles builds his pieces around a figure that enables him to craft new female styles. Whilst it has been pleasing to witness hefty knitwear in numerous collections for some time now he has advanced the showy end of the range. He opened the market to a niche for exaggerated knitwear as lengthy scarves were rapidly on the high street, hefty hats and knitted boots were the next step. It was a shock to this author that Aran knitwear was not more in style following his collection.
Sandra Bucklund
Buckland is fascinated by the human profile as witnessed by her 3D designs. Her structures are constructed with her own knitted fabrics. The findings of her labor comes from long term experimentation using her machines. Her production is a patchwork of knitted parts. Her 2010 collections were the first to be fully produced. Up until that moment all the work she created was custom-made. One of her most recognized pieces was worn by Tilda Swinton For ANOTHER MAGAZINE.
Rick Owens
Owens uses knitwear generously throughout his collections. His creations utilise rather straightforward techniques in the creation of key garments whilst all the time being recognised as perfectly tailored pieces. When you scrutinize the tailoring applied in his work you discern the numerous techniques employed to manipulate the knitwear. This habitually results in the construction of innovative forms and shapes.. The monochrome colour palette he uses to define the figure of his knitwear is identified as being distinctive to him and acts as a signature in various ways. His handiwork is regularly formed in one fluid process on his machines. The process is well planned and leads to outfits with interesting silhouettes and shapes
Ramon Gurillo
Gurillo is a Spanish born designer who started out working as an illustrator. He uses a team of veteran knitters and craftsmen under his leadership. His knit techniques are extremely refined. His work is known for employing re-embellished textiles with knits crocheted on top. The unique nature of the hand knits means that it is exceptionally hard for them to be transferred to machines. Gurillo focuses less on profile and more on the material and its drape. The materials and yarns utilised are of a extremely high quality and so help to play a part in effecting the aesthetics of the garment.
Ioannis Dimitrousis
Most of his collections are unisex and as a consequence crocheted. His mother deserves the acclaim for channeling his scientific intellect in the direction of crochet! He is also known to focus on the drape and its weight in the completed outcome. His most recent collection was weighted with sequins and crochet frills.
About the Author
Peter Falconer is a writer for a number of Fashion publications the latest of which includes information on the Charlene Mullen and Lina Peterson collections.
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